THE ART OF SHAVING

Grooming That Cuts To The Chase
The Path of Least Resistance

Posted March 11th, 2008 by Will Williams

Men, I'm going to tell it to you straight. If you want to put on your best game face, you've got to get rid of the bumps. Women notice them, coworkers spot them, and your mirror doesn't lie.

These bumps can ruin an otherwise sharp-looking face, downgrade a professional image, and even dampen your love life if they start to lower your self-confidence.

The problem affects nearly 11 million Black men, so you're not alone. But, ultimately, you're the one to blame. Granted, we've got the odds stacked against us, since a Black man's beard is more coarse and curly than that of most other men, but we have few excuses to remain saddled with them when the tools and know-how are readily available.

The company that makes Bump Patrol, the one that I work for, conducted its own research that shows barbers across America are overwhelmed by the amount of Black men burdened with razor bumps. However, once you understand how razor bumps form, prevention should be a snap. You'll stay clear of clippers and adapt a wet-shave regimen that takes only about three minutes.

The bumps that mar your beard and your neck are actually inflamed hair follicles caused by shaving irritation. When you irritate your skin, it causes inflammation, which in turn closes the hair pores. When a pore closes, hair gets trapped inside yet continues to grow. Shaving over bumps of ingrown hairs is painful and causes further irritation.

To end the cycle, you have to get rid of the bumps and improve your shaving regimen, keeping in mind that the more often you shave, the less opportunity there is for ingrown hairs.

The most important shaving advice for a man is to take the path of least resistance. This means using a high-quality, multi-blade razor and shaving in the same direction that the hair grows. To do this, "map" your face with fingers or a credit card to feel or hear the direction change. Typically, hair will grow downward from your temple until about your Adam's apple. However, it's around that area that hair growth direction will vary from man to man. You'll need to find out exactly where your hair growth changes so you can shave in the proper direction. For a helpful diagram and demonstration of the "Directional Shave Method," go to bumppatrol.com.

Whether you're strictly a soap-and-deodorant kind of guy or someone who buys eye creams and exfoliators, a revised shaving regimen shouldn't require a shelf filled with new grooming products. Nevertheless, you'll have to start using a product specifically geared to reduce inflammation, prevent infection, and hydrate the skin, it doesn't have to be an expensive formula and shouldn't be hard to find or use, but including it in your new regimen will be critical. Naturally, I prefer Bump Patrol's dermatologist-recommended treatment for its swift results.

Initial repair work for razor bump problems also involves tweezers. If you have severe razor bumps, make sure to remove any ingrown hairs in the direction of hair growth. For best results, remove ingrown hairs at night and apply Bump Patrol treatment to help heal the skin before a morning's shave.

When morning comes, hop in the shower to soften your beard or moisten your face with warm water, then apply shave gel formulated for Black men's skin to lubricate and moisturize your beard. Then, follow the path of least resistance—beginning with your shave and whatever else the day brings you.

(Will Williams is Bump Patrol's Director of Education and a Licensed Master Barber.)